Time To Say Goodbye

The tip toeing to bring TTP and the government at the negotiation table is going on. Sitting on chairs in various, sometimes secret locations, walking off and coming back in different formations, the protagonists exchange demands, ideas, offers and threats. TTP demands the release of all its non-combatant prisoners and immediately denies releasing their own abducted persons (being obviously noncombatants as well, as the son of Salman Taseer or the son of former prime minister Gilani), that the government asks in return. The floor is open to negotiations among Pakistanis, meeting and facing their own and supposedly familiar culture of arguing.

Tensions with all the neighboring countries are raising. After three wars with India in the past and serious differences with Afghanistan, pressure is now building up from the two other neighbors:
China expresses deep concerns about potential threats in their border area and Iran's president Hassan Rowhani picks up the phone to call prime minister Sharif personally to protest against the murdering of one of their young border guards. He demands that Pakistan takes immediate steps to find and release the five border guards still in the hands of militants (Jaishul Adl) - and finally secures its borders with adequate measures, signaling determination to send Iranian task force units to attack the bases of terrorists inside Pakistan. Iran also addressed the UN, demanding action from the international community, insisting that mere condemnation of such acts of terrorism would not be enough anymore.
The Shia communities in Pakistan's western area, bordering Shia-majority Iran, are increasingly targeted by Sunni militants.

A truly generous gift of 1,5 billion dollars has reached the coffers of the Pakistani treasury and let the people wonder for a few days about the donor, who wishes allegedly to stay anonymous. As the announcement - and the raise of the value of the Pakistani rupee - followed a short, but very cordial visit by crown prince Salman of Saudi Arabia, the guessing did not last long.
This "friendly gift" and "unconditional grant" is met with some suspicion about the true nature of the astounding generosity - "there are no free lunches in foreign policy, let alone free feasts", as a journalist put it. Syria and Sunni-Shia conflict is on the mind of many and raising concerns of potential requests that Pakistan might be obliged to fulfill in the future.

All petitions from former president Musharraf's defense lawyers have been rejected, even the one against the non-bailable arrest warrant and his trial at the special court, being accused of high treason,  is about to begin, the outcome and its potentially destabilizing consequences uncertain.

My four years in Pakistan will soon come to an end - the "trailing spouse" is packing her bags again and is sailing to new shores. I am ending with this blog three years of writing about personal views "behind the veil", about various facets of this multilayered society, that gets everyone immediately involved who sets foot in this incredibly fascinating country!

The people of this country are of course much more complex than what one might assume when reading the international press. The caring, sweet sentiments and softness of Pakistani men is a side of their character that is hardly ever written about - but I can assure it exists, regardless the area or social background.
One only needs to stop at a Daewoo highway station to discover fairyland. No female customers, as it is a rest area for truck drivers, but the entrance is adorned with "Love" pillows of many colors.
This the welcome to a paradise for shopping for gifts on the way home for your beloved and adored wife - which are celebrated in poetic poems on Valentine's Day all over the newspapers.

The countless flights during the past four years in this part of the world revealed an abundance of colors and styles in uniforms for airport personnel and flight attendants - taking every shape from comfortable to fashionable, covering for elegance or decency and respect for religious sensitivities, or less so… They might dribble in Saris or Sarongs - with hats or shawls or fake hair knots - or run along the aisles in short pants.

I found artistic masterpieces in the plainness of washrooms aboard - leaving no space for any complaints of lacking courtesy.
I have read the kind suggestion, to "please wipe out the sink as a courtesy to the next passenger" so many times, that I was just short of asking the staff of providing me with a choice of detergents and a mob, to comply thoroughly.

I can even handle the remote controls by now, dear Lukas and Carla!, without a beginners class given every time by my children. Adjusting volume - no problem, even shutting down appears doable and only advanced technical tricks can challenge my skills.


Calling home this amazing country I shared the daily life, the joys and sorrows with my dear Pakistani friends and the ones from the diplomatic community, who became so close companions, as we have the pleasure of seeing us just about every day, that - "see you tomorrow!" became the self-evident adieu.

The farewell will be much less formal, but all the more cordial than the official beginning of our remarkable stay...

The hotel Serena became virtually my second home, sometimes several events on the same day - some of the waiters, the chef, the doorman greet me by name by now and I can find not only the halls of Shesh Mahal and Shamadan in the labyrinth of the corridors with closed eyes. I have no worry that my picture will vanish once I am gone, as thousands of photographs of our activities have constantly been taken. None of them were ever to be seen and we keep wondering, for whom on earth these photographers might be working.
Always good to have your own in house photographer who fully grasps the mastery of how to avoid any complaints about protagonists who might not like their smile on the photo.

The countless succession of National Days, sometimes several in a week, for sure stimulates the creativity of the pastry chefs that adorn the cakes for the "cutting ceremony" with whole landscapes, even winter sceneries, blooming rose bouquets and black forests - being then cut by a long sword that several hands of dignitaries press into the soft layers - wondering, if ever anyone actually eats a piece of it. I know the Pakistani national anthem that follows the one of the respective country by heart, in every version, and soon better then my own - I start humming the tunes with the first beat at this solemn occasions.

The fascinating voyage of the last four years has carried me to the southern desert in Sindh and confronted me within the same day with extreme poverty and illiteracy, sophisticated education and splendor. I have shared the joy of elaborate weddings and the unspeakable sadness of women who fell victim to acid attacks by their husbands. I have experienced the silence and majesty of the stunning Himalayas and the hustle and bustle of the boiling city Karachi, felt excitement and freedom cantering on a not so tamed horse in the hills near Islamabad as well as the seclusion in a sealed off diplomatic Enclave during days of threats.  I was welcomed at abundantly rich buffets, filled with all delicacies the Pakistani cuisine offers and sat in the intimacy and semidarkness of a women's quarter in a remote village in the Swat Valley, waiting for the water to boil over a small fire for chai, then for an egg to boil - the only thing that these hospitable people could offer me to eat and would not hesitate to do so.

The political developments are of constant concern, the militants, the growing religiosity and intolerance and then, still, improvements in education, in trade, democratic structures.
And everywhere an incredible resilience, a warmth and generosity by the people we meet, that melts away doubts about the future. Everyone who is leaving and has to move on to another posting, as I will do in a few weeks, does it with a heavy heart, worrying and full of empathy for the wonderful friends and the challenges they face ahead.

After an Attack is Before an Attack

Not so surprisingly, the TTP announces a month's long cease fire and readiness for talks, after the army seriously hammered their hideouts in a row of airstrikes that sparked panic and disorientation among the militants. Willingly, the government accepts the offer and starts forming a new team, which should include members of the highest political level as well as the army.
The question persists, what the Pakistani state is ready to negotiate about - giving up some of its territory for a new Islamic Emirate, a new Islamic constitution with Sharia law, sharing the political power? The army is reluctant to join and is ready to fight, but wants the politicians to assume their responsibilities.

Two suicide bombers and their armed accomplices attack the Islamabad District Court in the middle of the city, on a regular Monday morning, killing at least eleven lawyers and a judge. "Ahrarul Hind" claims responsibility, a splinter group from the TTP and apparently after the judge who dismissed a case against former general Musharraf for having ordered the operation against the Lal Mosque, under siege by militants in 2007.
Musharraf's lawyers request a change of venue for his high treason trial after having received death threats from the Taliban.


The Chinese worry about the security of their compatriots living and working in Pakistan, before new investments would be considered. Not to worry, they are being told by the Prime Minister, as every worker would have two army personnel assigned to his protection…
China shares direct borders with Pakistan and Afghanistan and is stepping up its engagement, concerned about attacks from militant muslims in their own region Xinjiang and suspecting that they receive training from their colleagues in Pakistan. On his visit last week in Afghanistan, Chinese foreign minister Wang Yi announced to work with Afghanistan and other neighbours to resolutely fight all terrorist forces, as NATO pulls out by the end of 2014 and a security agreement with the US appears quite uncertain.


Large areas of Sindh's Tharparkar district suffer from acute shortages of food, water and medicines after a severe drought. Only after more than 100 children died from malnutrition, the government takes action and orders distribution of wheat and inspection of the few hospitals that are completely
overwhelmed by the magnitude of the misery.


The High Court of Peshawar declares illegal the stopping and checking of vehicles carrying goods to Afghanistan, ending a nearly four month blockade of NATO supplies by PTI party activists that caused serious damage to the border traffic of all goods. Reluctantly, PTI chairman Imran Khan decides to end the blockade, not without pretending that this, his party's move, was responsible for the US decision to halt the use of drones.


Sargodhian Spirit Trust School is celebrating its 9th anniversary and invites the Diplomatic Corps to join for that purpose in Rashidabad in the Province of Sindh. Immediately agreed and confirmed, as this is the best, funniest and increasingly the only way for us diplomats to travel in the country!
The school is a charitable organization and provides high quality education to deprived, but talented children from all over the country, the founders come mainly from military background and Air Chief Marshall Tahir Rafiq Butt is the chief guest - his car's license plate giving a hint of the passenger's function and status, but definitely lacking the exoticism of the following evening's grand host's personal vehicle.

We leave the car park behind and move to the celebration, that offer an impressive succession of speeches, followed by an enthralling variety of cultural performances by the students themselves. Sindhi, Baloch, Pashtun, Punjabi dances to their specific tunes, after which the stage is emptied, making now space for the real surprise. Doctor Faustus is appearing on the scene, an obviously widely inspiring character far beyond our German cultural horizon. The performance of this courageous young fellow surpasses easily our wildest expectations as he manages to reduce Goethe's drama, that usually demands the audience's concentrated attention for about three hours in a common theatre, into a fifteen minutes solo performance, only shortly interrupted by a male and mainly speechless Gretchen. Can even be summarized in one sentence, which was also the last one of the fast up and down pacing and elegantly gesturing actor: "If you sin, you will die, eternally". Voilà - it's that simple, dear professors of German literature!

A healthy, simple lunch in the garden with the students, who impress with their knowledge, curiosity and determined aspirations, and admire the smart look of the police officers -

The so announced "luxury coaster" is waiting for us for the two hours drive to Hyderabad. Indeed, a lot of extras have been installed to heighten the comfort level of the passengers - and the driver!

We immediately realize, that we are not the only passengers, but merely add to a myriad of already cozily nestled mosquitos behind the thick orange curtains, who welcome us with air dances of excitement. Within minutes, my Turkish colleague proudly examines her handkerchief with a couple of dozen trophies of mere black spots, calling it her personal record of insect hunt!

A comfort, to lean back on the fresh and rose adorned VIP covers, that gives us immediately a feeling of preferred customers after the successful battle with the local wildlife.

The fondness for traditional crafts and decorations includes men - as with the beautiful trucks, the weapons make no exception. The glass beads embroidery combine the cap of the bearer and strap of the machine gun to an exclusive and stylish set.

The night is spent by the majority of the group at a sprawling estate of a Sindhi landlord and by a few in the guest rooms of the army barracks. Of course, I pick the straw for the barracks - but that comes with an impeccable service! A batman, who offers to clean the shoes and iron the shirts and another one to serve tea, a bathroom with a shower that alone could easily swallow a whole apartment in New York and a wide range of Gillette products neatly lined up on the four meter stretch of glass board on top of the sinks. I am in a man's world, no doubt about that.

Back home in Islamabad for a night and off to the Lahore Literary Festival, to another world, the one of intellectuals, writers, philosophers, journalists and artists - and of the Yuppies of Pakistan!
The second one to be organized in Lahore after the big success of those in the big sister city Karachi and now praised for its intimacy on the friendly premises, a program with international participants and an audience that is exhilarated by the talks, presentations, panel discussions and book launches; hard to decide which event to attend.

A panel discussion on the future of Afghanistan, famous Ahmed Rashid and Vali Nasr the stars, Hina Rabhani Khar, the former foreign minister, whipping with her stylish high heels, followed by a discussion on women writers and Alex von Tunzelmann - "Indian Summer" - reveals, that she is quite happy, that her name appears to be male, as she suspects, that one would be more hesitant to choose a female historian's book than one of a male writer! She is talking about the Western buyers of her books.
The program is mastered with iron punctuality and the women are the ones who asks most of the questions, appearing strong, self-confident and articulate. Our prejudices do not match reality, sometimes…

Nawab Follies

The set up "peace talks with the Taliban" has run into a dead end, literally, before the first talk could even start. More deadly attacks on security agencies, twenty three soldiers from the Frontier Corps beheaded and in Peshawar all cinemas closed for the time being, as two of them were hit by bombs which left at least eighteen visitors dead. The cinemas have no budget to install walkthrough gates  and detectors for explosives, the police understaffed and fighting militancy in the capital city of this area bordering Khyber Agency - hence, another one of the few and simple pleasures gone.
A suicide bomber in a police uniform targets the Iranian Consulate in Peshawar and many security persons lose their lives preventing him from entering the premise. Iranian border guards are abducted into Pakistan by the militant group Jaish-ul-Adl, the same group that killed fifteen guards in October last year, prompting the Iranian government to demand that Pakistan secured its borders.

The Army attacks several hideouts of militants in Khyber Agency, killing at least ninety suspected militants affiliated with different groups of the banned Tehreek-i-Taliban Pakistan (TTP).
The ISPR (Inter Services Public Relation Offices) of the  Pakistan Armed Forces releases a statement according to which 460 people, including 152 security personnel, had been killed by the Taliban during the last five months only.
The Interior Ministry warns of serious terrorist threats - in Punjab from the TTP and LeJ, in Sindh from Al-Qaeda, TTP LeJ and crime syndicates, in Balochistan from Al-Qaeda, TTP, LeJ, Belochistan Liberation Army, in Gilgit-Baltistan from TTP and LeJ and adds that Islamabad had become an extremely dangerous city because of the presence of several banned organizations and groups with sleeper cells of Al-Qaeda, TTP and LeJ. But at least the city is full of wonderfully blooming marigolds.

The Prime Minister's Adviser on National Security and Foreign Affairs, Sartaj Aziz, announces - for the first time publicly - that the launch of a  military operation in North Waziristan is being seriously discussed by the cabinet after the talks with the Taliban have collapsed.

All schools and universities in Islamabad have been put on high security alert, considering the danger of retaliation from the TTP as their hideouts in KP are being shelled by the armed forces.

And the journey through the desert continues, leaving the world of the hunting sheikhs I go back in time and enter the very different one of the Rajasthani royal houses of Jaisalmer and the Amirs of Bahawalpur who still own some of their once splendid properties.

The mild winter sun shines through the now airy roof and creates new patterns on the crumbling terra cotta floor, illuminating the once permanent semi darkness of the elaborately furnished and decorated rooms. A gentle breeze blows through the last shreds of mosquito nets in beautifully carved wooden window frames and evokes the image of waving curtains, women sipping honey sweetened tea and picking baked sweets, having lifted their veils in the intimacy of their private salons, chatting and whispering, sharing secrets on a hot summer afternoon. 

A group of teenage girls runs laughing through the hallway of the estate, flattering their scarves and balance skillfully in their sandals over the ruins, the rough terrain, the high steps.

Blue ceramics, as this area is still famous for the production of tiles and pottery, decorate the walls and floors of palaces, shrines and tombs. Whole tea services, plates and vases of every size and shape find their way in our luggage, slowly filling the trunk of the car, as we are generously gifted by every host we meet on this trip. During the visit of a small local factory in Multan, a photographer catches what seems at least a hundred photos as proof of our presence and I am wondering and tempted to ask, if he is on Facebook. No, it turns out, he is the "official photographer" of the shopkeeper and we will spend over an hour over tea admiring the several photo books about every single visit to this store - including a colleague from Great Britain who left a while ago... No hidden treasure, that store - I am afraid.

The ride on the small country road is peppered with rustic encounters, as the sugar cane harvesting season is in full swing and there must be a secret competition among the drivers, who manages to load the biggest amount of canes on their trucks. Quite impressive, the result. Not every waggon is sharing the enthusiasm of its driver and simply unloads the excessive load over board, every couple of hundred meters another one, blocking the passage for a considerable amount of time...

Why not use the unexpected break for a full treatment at the barber parlor right along the road?

Or a snack at the open rest area of an only too familiar provider of delightful refreshments??

The sun is setting, as Derawar Fort appears on the horizon, a major fort of the Nawabs, the Amirs of Bahawalpur. Keeping his autonomy under the Raj, the Nawab was the first of the princely rulers to join Pakistan, giving a substantial part of his fortune to several institutions of Punjab and creating a Refugee and Rehabilitation Fund in 1947 as a central organization for the relief of refugees during partition.

He died in 1966 and his nephew currently holds the title of Amir without any political or administrative power - and without his immense wealth as his ancestor was considered the second richest man on earth during his time.

Not only elephants had to suffer headaches as they would be forced by potential invaders to try to slam the doors of the fort, but British car dealers of the noblest kind. The story goes, that as the Nawab was disdainfully rejected as a potent customer by a Rolls Royce dealer in London, he simply sent his elegantly dressed valet to buy all the cars exhibited in the showroom - only to equip them back home with brooms at the front and use the prestigious symbol of British elegance as street cleaners and transportation of waste in the city of Bahawalpur. Photos of this special type of vehicle were provided to the press all over the world. 

The company immediately offered a Rolls Royce of his choice - for free! - in exchange for the promise to relieve the cars from their unusual duties.

The highly respected Nawab of Bahawalpur joined his antecedents at the site of family sarcophagus in Derawar Fort after a tenure of 59 years. 

 Sic transit gloria mundi…

Shifting Ground

Arriving at the familiar austerity of "Rawal Lounge", as usual at the last dark night hour just before dawn and after a travel that carried me through time and space for two days, a bodyguard is waiting for me with a friendly smile. I suspect this is not just a gesture of an extra heartwarming welcome - things must have gotten worse over the last days. The road from the airport to the city is deserted and the guards at the gate to the Diplomatic Enclave wear helmets now, chilling the temperature and I wrap a shawl from Kashmir around my shoulders, silence the iPod, Leonard Cohen, music from another world that I leave behind.

After a period of relative peace at the end of the year, the new leadership of the TTP started the new year with a series of deadly attacks that cost over a hundred lives in January in one week alone. Shias, policemen, soldiers, journalists, vaccine workers and their guards are the main victims. A massive law enforcement operation by the Frontier Corps and the police in Belochistan and bombardments by the Pakistan Air Force prompts TTP to announce that they will retaliate in going for "soft targets"now, meaning civilians, children, foreigners - anytime, anywhere.
Even seasoned colleagues appear nervous and the Prime Minister holds a high level meeting on internal security, signaling willingness for military operation. Thousands flee from their villages in the tribal area, fearing an imminent military offensive against Taliban insurgents in North Waziristan.

But again, political tactics take another turn and Nawaz Sharif announces to give peace a "final chance", offering dialogue to the Taliban. Negotiators are being nominated, their power and mandate immediately put into question by both sides - the government team asks for direct contact with the TTP Shura and limit the talks to geographically critical areas, the Taliban committee wants meetings with the army chief, director general of the Inter-Services Intelligence and the prime minister and insists the purpose of dialogue is the enforcement of Sharia law throughout Pakistan. This the road to peace? Or a detour to unite the country for much demanded military action against the militants?
Arriving in Islamabad more than three years ago I was told that the Pakistanis are a debating society, which I can vividly and willingly confirm, as they include without hesitation foreigners in their open, dynamic, analytical and sometimes heated discussions - and it will certainly continue to be so, including all levels and topics.



General Musharraf remains confined to his country he choose so enthusiastically to return to for a revival of his abruptly interrupted political career. The prosecution before the special court on high treason comes step by step closer to a trial, as his request to seek treatment for his heart problems in the US has been turned down and a warrant on bail issued, after having failed to appear at court.


The prime minister stays determined to approach and solve the dispute with India over Kashmir, addressing the continued misery of the Kashmiri people and their right to self determination, he extends a new invitation for talks to India, promoting to include the Kashmiris. Pakistan has recently taken steps to open the Line of Control (LoC) to ease reunion of families from both sides and facilitate trade.


Pakistan offers its hidden gems only to the patient and persistent guest and many of them remain elusive  even to the Pakistanis themselves. Cholistan desert in the Southern part of Punjab is one of them and friends of friends of relatives of friends open the many gates - to the decaying beauty of the palaces of past princes and nawabs, and to the secret world of modern sheikhs who arrive with their Jumbo Jets and falcons on private airbases in the desert.
Fog in Lahore delays departure and allows an extended tea time at Rawal Lounge in Islamabad with several cups of tea and plates of cookies - no more tea, or cookies on the plane, thank you. PIA reaches a new level of service during the flight in replacing the air conditioning with an aerosol spray type "peach blossom" - the airport of Rahim Yar Khan is under a starry clear sky upon arrival and the doors finally open for a deep breath of cool air .

Splendor of marble and gold awaits at the guest house of the Arabic hosts, the many sofas neatly lined up against the walls and every table in the house, large or small, carries a tissue box. Who would deny the practical value of this ever present accessory, as snacks, fried or sugared or both are generously offered as soon as one takes a seat.

Southern Punjab is being described on the same trip by some as a haven of security, that managed to stay free of the Taliban so far, by others as a newly infested militant ground. The concern about security is visible and taken seriously by the police of the district and the province and the ISI, each of them providing their own vehicle with armed guards and as the army seriously hesitates to let us pass through their territory, one can only guess if the guests or the accompanying escorts are the reason of concern.

Large alleys through lush greenery lined by palm trees, blooming rose gardens, an oasis of Arabic imagination in the middle of the desert and as the cool night is falling, the warm glow of huge burning fire logs reflect on the colourful silk dresses of dancing transgenders, who move ecstatically to the beat of local tabla players. Again and again, one of them swallows large sips of gasoline and throws fire flames into the air, a dangerous performance and nothing we can do to stop this potentially hazardous dance.

The desert holds many more surprises - dry and dusty during daytime, all shades of grey and beige in the shimmering white winter light and a cloud of powdery sand arises behind the car during the fast drive through knee deep shifting ground. The right season for hunting birds and the sheikhs are expected for their winter pleasure - as we are expected for teatime in the wide bed of Indus river, that luckily for our picnic carries hardly any water at this time of the year.

The camels walk gracefully, crossing the desert along with their growing shadows, towards a simple natural water hole. Most of them live uncared for and breed and feed their baby camels on their own. But still, a few pastors prepare a camel for a ride, hopefully a tame one, for the guest…

Yes!! Safely back on the ground and happy the smile on both faces!

                                                                               To be continued...