Shifting Ground

Arriving at the familiar austerity of "Rawal Lounge", as usual at the last dark night hour just before dawn and after a travel that carried me through time and space for two days, a bodyguard is waiting for me with a friendly smile. I suspect this is not just a gesture of an extra heartwarming welcome - things must have gotten worse over the last days. The road from the airport to the city is deserted and the guards at the gate to the Diplomatic Enclave wear helmets now, chilling the temperature and I wrap a shawl from Kashmir around my shoulders, silence the iPod, Leonard Cohen, music from another world that I leave behind.

After a period of relative peace at the end of the year, the new leadership of the TTP started the new year with a series of deadly attacks that cost over a hundred lives in January in one week alone. Shias, policemen, soldiers, journalists, vaccine workers and their guards are the main victims. A massive law enforcement operation by the Frontier Corps and the police in Belochistan and bombardments by the Pakistan Air Force prompts TTP to announce that they will retaliate in going for "soft targets"now, meaning civilians, children, foreigners - anytime, anywhere.
Even seasoned colleagues appear nervous and the Prime Minister holds a high level meeting on internal security, signaling willingness for military operation. Thousands flee from their villages in the tribal area, fearing an imminent military offensive against Taliban insurgents in North Waziristan.

But again, political tactics take another turn and Nawaz Sharif announces to give peace a "final chance", offering dialogue to the Taliban. Negotiators are being nominated, their power and mandate immediately put into question by both sides - the government team asks for direct contact with the TTP Shura and limit the talks to geographically critical areas, the Taliban committee wants meetings with the army chief, director general of the Inter-Services Intelligence and the prime minister and insists the purpose of dialogue is the enforcement of Sharia law throughout Pakistan. This the road to peace? Or a detour to unite the country for much demanded military action against the militants?
Arriving in Islamabad more than three years ago I was told that the Pakistanis are a debating society, which I can vividly and willingly confirm, as they include without hesitation foreigners in their open, dynamic, analytical and sometimes heated discussions - and it will certainly continue to be so, including all levels and topics.



General Musharraf remains confined to his country he choose so enthusiastically to return to for a revival of his abruptly interrupted political career. The prosecution before the special court on high treason comes step by step closer to a trial, as his request to seek treatment for his heart problems in the US has been turned down and a warrant on bail issued, after having failed to appear at court.


The prime minister stays determined to approach and solve the dispute with India over Kashmir, addressing the continued misery of the Kashmiri people and their right to self determination, he extends a new invitation for talks to India, promoting to include the Kashmiris. Pakistan has recently taken steps to open the Line of Control (LoC) to ease reunion of families from both sides and facilitate trade.


Pakistan offers its hidden gems only to the patient and persistent guest and many of them remain elusive  even to the Pakistanis themselves. Cholistan desert in the Southern part of Punjab is one of them and friends of friends of relatives of friends open the many gates - to the decaying beauty of the palaces of past princes and nawabs, and to the secret world of modern sheikhs who arrive with their Jumbo Jets and falcons on private airbases in the desert.
Fog in Lahore delays departure and allows an extended tea time at Rawal Lounge in Islamabad with several cups of tea and plates of cookies - no more tea, or cookies on the plane, thank you. PIA reaches a new level of service during the flight in replacing the air conditioning with an aerosol spray type "peach blossom" - the airport of Rahim Yar Khan is under a starry clear sky upon arrival and the doors finally open for a deep breath of cool air .

Splendor of marble and gold awaits at the guest house of the Arabic hosts, the many sofas neatly lined up against the walls and every table in the house, large or small, carries a tissue box. Who would deny the practical value of this ever present accessory, as snacks, fried or sugared or both are generously offered as soon as one takes a seat.

Southern Punjab is being described on the same trip by some as a haven of security, that managed to stay free of the Taliban so far, by others as a newly infested militant ground. The concern about security is visible and taken seriously by the police of the district and the province and the ISI, each of them providing their own vehicle with armed guards and as the army seriously hesitates to let us pass through their territory, one can only guess if the guests or the accompanying escorts are the reason of concern.

Large alleys through lush greenery lined by palm trees, blooming rose gardens, an oasis of Arabic imagination in the middle of the desert and as the cool night is falling, the warm glow of huge burning fire logs reflect on the colourful silk dresses of dancing transgenders, who move ecstatically to the beat of local tabla players. Again and again, one of them swallows large sips of gasoline and throws fire flames into the air, a dangerous performance and nothing we can do to stop this potentially hazardous dance.

The desert holds many more surprises - dry and dusty during daytime, all shades of grey and beige in the shimmering white winter light and a cloud of powdery sand arises behind the car during the fast drive through knee deep shifting ground. The right season for hunting birds and the sheikhs are expected for their winter pleasure - as we are expected for teatime in the wide bed of Indus river, that luckily for our picnic carries hardly any water at this time of the year.

The camels walk gracefully, crossing the desert along with their growing shadows, towards a simple natural water hole. Most of them live uncared for and breed and feed their baby camels on their own. But still, a few pastors prepare a camel for a ride, hopefully a tame one, for the guest…

Yes!! Safely back on the ground and happy the smile on both faces!

                                                                               To be continued...