Time To Say Goodbye

The tip toeing to bring TTP and the government at the negotiation table is going on. Sitting on chairs in various, sometimes secret locations, walking off and coming back in different formations, the protagonists exchange demands, ideas, offers and threats. TTP demands the release of all its non-combatant prisoners and immediately denies releasing their own abducted persons (being obviously noncombatants as well, as the son of Salman Taseer or the son of former prime minister Gilani), that the government asks in return. The floor is open to negotiations among Pakistanis, meeting and facing their own and supposedly familiar culture of arguing.

Tensions with all the neighboring countries are raising. After three wars with India in the past and serious differences with Afghanistan, pressure is now building up from the two other neighbors:
China expresses deep concerns about potential threats in their border area and Iran's president Hassan Rowhani picks up the phone to call prime minister Sharif personally to protest against the murdering of one of their young border guards. He demands that Pakistan takes immediate steps to find and release the five border guards still in the hands of militants (Jaishul Adl) - and finally secures its borders with adequate measures, signaling determination to send Iranian task force units to attack the bases of terrorists inside Pakistan. Iran also addressed the UN, demanding action from the international community, insisting that mere condemnation of such acts of terrorism would not be enough anymore.
The Shia communities in Pakistan's western area, bordering Shia-majority Iran, are increasingly targeted by Sunni militants.

A truly generous gift of 1,5 billion dollars has reached the coffers of the Pakistani treasury and let the people wonder for a few days about the donor, who wishes allegedly to stay anonymous. As the announcement - and the raise of the value of the Pakistani rupee - followed a short, but very cordial visit by crown prince Salman of Saudi Arabia, the guessing did not last long.
This "friendly gift" and "unconditional grant" is met with some suspicion about the true nature of the astounding generosity - "there are no free lunches in foreign policy, let alone free feasts", as a journalist put it. Syria and Sunni-Shia conflict is on the mind of many and raising concerns of potential requests that Pakistan might be obliged to fulfill in the future.

All petitions from former president Musharraf's defense lawyers have been rejected, even the one against the non-bailable arrest warrant and his trial at the special court, being accused of high treason,  is about to begin, the outcome and its potentially destabilizing consequences uncertain.

My four years in Pakistan will soon come to an end - the "trailing spouse" is packing her bags again and is sailing to new shores. I am ending with this blog three years of writing about personal views "behind the veil", about various facets of this multilayered society, that gets everyone immediately involved who sets foot in this incredibly fascinating country!

The people of this country are of course much more complex than what one might assume when reading the international press. The caring, sweet sentiments and softness of Pakistani men is a side of their character that is hardly ever written about - but I can assure it exists, regardless the area or social background.
One only needs to stop at a Daewoo highway station to discover fairyland. No female customers, as it is a rest area for truck drivers, but the entrance is adorned with "Love" pillows of many colors.
This the welcome to a paradise for shopping for gifts on the way home for your beloved and adored wife - which are celebrated in poetic poems on Valentine's Day all over the newspapers.

The countless flights during the past four years in this part of the world revealed an abundance of colors and styles in uniforms for airport personnel and flight attendants - taking every shape from comfortable to fashionable, covering for elegance or decency and respect for religious sensitivities, or less so… They might dribble in Saris or Sarongs - with hats or shawls or fake hair knots - or run along the aisles in short pants.

I found artistic masterpieces in the plainness of washrooms aboard - leaving no space for any complaints of lacking courtesy.
I have read the kind suggestion, to "please wipe out the sink as a courtesy to the next passenger" so many times, that I was just short of asking the staff of providing me with a choice of detergents and a mob, to comply thoroughly.

I can even handle the remote controls by now, dear Lukas and Carla!, without a beginners class given every time by my children. Adjusting volume - no problem, even shutting down appears doable and only advanced technical tricks can challenge my skills.


Calling home this amazing country I shared the daily life, the joys and sorrows with my dear Pakistani friends and the ones from the diplomatic community, who became so close companions, as we have the pleasure of seeing us just about every day, that - "see you tomorrow!" became the self-evident adieu.

The farewell will be much less formal, but all the more cordial than the official beginning of our remarkable stay...

The hotel Serena became virtually my second home, sometimes several events on the same day - some of the waiters, the chef, the doorman greet me by name by now and I can find not only the halls of Shesh Mahal and Shamadan in the labyrinth of the corridors with closed eyes. I have no worry that my picture will vanish once I am gone, as thousands of photographs of our activities have constantly been taken. None of them were ever to be seen and we keep wondering, for whom on earth these photographers might be working.
Always good to have your own in house photographer who fully grasps the mastery of how to avoid any complaints about protagonists who might not like their smile on the photo.

The countless succession of National Days, sometimes several in a week, for sure stimulates the creativity of the pastry chefs that adorn the cakes for the "cutting ceremony" with whole landscapes, even winter sceneries, blooming rose bouquets and black forests - being then cut by a long sword that several hands of dignitaries press into the soft layers - wondering, if ever anyone actually eats a piece of it. I know the Pakistani national anthem that follows the one of the respective country by heart, in every version, and soon better then my own - I start humming the tunes with the first beat at this solemn occasions.

The fascinating voyage of the last four years has carried me to the southern desert in Sindh and confronted me within the same day with extreme poverty and illiteracy, sophisticated education and splendor. I have shared the joy of elaborate weddings and the unspeakable sadness of women who fell victim to acid attacks by their husbands. I have experienced the silence and majesty of the stunning Himalayas and the hustle and bustle of the boiling city Karachi, felt excitement and freedom cantering on a not so tamed horse in the hills near Islamabad as well as the seclusion in a sealed off diplomatic Enclave during days of threats.  I was welcomed at abundantly rich buffets, filled with all delicacies the Pakistani cuisine offers and sat in the intimacy and semidarkness of a women's quarter in a remote village in the Swat Valley, waiting for the water to boil over a small fire for chai, then for an egg to boil - the only thing that these hospitable people could offer me to eat and would not hesitate to do so.

The political developments are of constant concern, the militants, the growing religiosity and intolerance and then, still, improvements in education, in trade, democratic structures.
And everywhere an incredible resilience, a warmth and generosity by the people we meet, that melts away doubts about the future. Everyone who is leaving and has to move on to another posting, as I will do in a few weeks, does it with a heavy heart, worrying and full of empathy for the wonderful friends and the challenges they face ahead.

After an Attack is Before an Attack

Not so surprisingly, the TTP announces a month's long cease fire and readiness for talks, after the army seriously hammered their hideouts in a row of airstrikes that sparked panic and disorientation among the militants. Willingly, the government accepts the offer and starts forming a new team, which should include members of the highest political level as well as the army.
The question persists, what the Pakistani state is ready to negotiate about - giving up some of its territory for a new Islamic Emirate, a new Islamic constitution with Sharia law, sharing the political power? The army is reluctant to join and is ready to fight, but wants the politicians to assume their responsibilities.

Two suicide bombers and their armed accomplices attack the Islamabad District Court in the middle of the city, on a regular Monday morning, killing at least eleven lawyers and a judge. "Ahrarul Hind" claims responsibility, a splinter group from the TTP and apparently after the judge who dismissed a case against former general Musharraf for having ordered the operation against the Lal Mosque, under siege by militants in 2007.
Musharraf's lawyers request a change of venue for his high treason trial after having received death threats from the Taliban.


The Chinese worry about the security of their compatriots living and working in Pakistan, before new investments would be considered. Not to worry, they are being told by the Prime Minister, as every worker would have two army personnel assigned to his protection…
China shares direct borders with Pakistan and Afghanistan and is stepping up its engagement, concerned about attacks from militant muslims in their own region Xinjiang and suspecting that they receive training from their colleagues in Pakistan. On his visit last week in Afghanistan, Chinese foreign minister Wang Yi announced to work with Afghanistan and other neighbours to resolutely fight all terrorist forces, as NATO pulls out by the end of 2014 and a security agreement with the US appears quite uncertain.


Large areas of Sindh's Tharparkar district suffer from acute shortages of food, water and medicines after a severe drought. Only after more than 100 children died from malnutrition, the government takes action and orders distribution of wheat and inspection of the few hospitals that are completely
overwhelmed by the magnitude of the misery.


The High Court of Peshawar declares illegal the stopping and checking of vehicles carrying goods to Afghanistan, ending a nearly four month blockade of NATO supplies by PTI party activists that caused serious damage to the border traffic of all goods. Reluctantly, PTI chairman Imran Khan decides to end the blockade, not without pretending that this, his party's move, was responsible for the US decision to halt the use of drones.


Sargodhian Spirit Trust School is celebrating its 9th anniversary and invites the Diplomatic Corps to join for that purpose in Rashidabad in the Province of Sindh. Immediately agreed and confirmed, as this is the best, funniest and increasingly the only way for us diplomats to travel in the country!
The school is a charitable organization and provides high quality education to deprived, but talented children from all over the country, the founders come mainly from military background and Air Chief Marshall Tahir Rafiq Butt is the chief guest - his car's license plate giving a hint of the passenger's function and status, but definitely lacking the exoticism of the following evening's grand host's personal vehicle.

We leave the car park behind and move to the celebration, that offer an impressive succession of speeches, followed by an enthralling variety of cultural performances by the students themselves. Sindhi, Baloch, Pashtun, Punjabi dances to their specific tunes, after which the stage is emptied, making now space for the real surprise. Doctor Faustus is appearing on the scene, an obviously widely inspiring character far beyond our German cultural horizon. The performance of this courageous young fellow surpasses easily our wildest expectations as he manages to reduce Goethe's drama, that usually demands the audience's concentrated attention for about three hours in a common theatre, into a fifteen minutes solo performance, only shortly interrupted by a male and mainly speechless Gretchen. Can even be summarized in one sentence, which was also the last one of the fast up and down pacing and elegantly gesturing actor: "If you sin, you will die, eternally". Voilà - it's that simple, dear professors of German literature!

A healthy, simple lunch in the garden with the students, who impress with their knowledge, curiosity and determined aspirations, and admire the smart look of the police officers -

The so announced "luxury coaster" is waiting for us for the two hours drive to Hyderabad. Indeed, a lot of extras have been installed to heighten the comfort level of the passengers - and the driver!

We immediately realize, that we are not the only passengers, but merely add to a myriad of already cozily nestled mosquitos behind the thick orange curtains, who welcome us with air dances of excitement. Within minutes, my Turkish colleague proudly examines her handkerchief with a couple of dozen trophies of mere black spots, calling it her personal record of insect hunt!

A comfort, to lean back on the fresh and rose adorned VIP covers, that gives us immediately a feeling of preferred customers after the successful battle with the local wildlife.

The fondness for traditional crafts and decorations includes men - as with the beautiful trucks, the weapons make no exception. The glass beads embroidery combine the cap of the bearer and strap of the machine gun to an exclusive and stylish set.

The night is spent by the majority of the group at a sprawling estate of a Sindhi landlord and by a few in the guest rooms of the army barracks. Of course, I pick the straw for the barracks - but that comes with an impeccable service! A batman, who offers to clean the shoes and iron the shirts and another one to serve tea, a bathroom with a shower that alone could easily swallow a whole apartment in New York and a wide range of Gillette products neatly lined up on the four meter stretch of glass board on top of the sinks. I am in a man's world, no doubt about that.

Back home in Islamabad for a night and off to the Lahore Literary Festival, to another world, the one of intellectuals, writers, philosophers, journalists and artists - and of the Yuppies of Pakistan!
The second one to be organized in Lahore after the big success of those in the big sister city Karachi and now praised for its intimacy on the friendly premises, a program with international participants and an audience that is exhilarated by the talks, presentations, panel discussions and book launches; hard to decide which event to attend.

A panel discussion on the future of Afghanistan, famous Ahmed Rashid and Vali Nasr the stars, Hina Rabhani Khar, the former foreign minister, whipping with her stylish high heels, followed by a discussion on women writers and Alex von Tunzelmann - "Indian Summer" - reveals, that she is quite happy, that her name appears to be male, as she suspects, that one would be more hesitant to choose a female historian's book than one of a male writer! She is talking about the Western buyers of her books.
The program is mastered with iron punctuality and the women are the ones who asks most of the questions, appearing strong, self-confident and articulate. Our prejudices do not match reality, sometimes…