Free Ticket To Ride

As Dr. Qadri's star is vanishing with the same speed as it has been rising (his petition at the Supreme Court seeking reconstitution of the Election Commission was dismissed and his capacity to file petition in such matters as a double citizen questioned), the fate of a brutally persecuted minority is finally gaining its urgently needed attention.
Quetta is home to half a million Hazaras, who migrated in the 19th century from Hazarajat in Afghanistan to this part of former British India due to persecution by the then ruler Emir Abdul Rahman Khan in their homeland. They are mainly Shiite muslims and easily identifiable due to their distinctive Central Asian features and Persian dialect.

The escalation of violence between militant groups of the Sunni majority and the Shiite minority started in the 1980 under President Zia ul-Haq, made largely possible by the influx of weapons following the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan. Today, Quetta, capital of the province of Beluchistan, is a hotbed of various separatist movements aspiring more autonomy or even independence from Pakistan. Furthermore, the Pakistani military is engaged in counter-insurgency operations near the province's border with Afghanistan. The Hazaras fall victim in the deadly clashes between the militant groups increasingly influenced by Saudia Arabia's puritanical Wahabi Islam and Iran's effort to promote its revolutionary Shiite Islam, facing a full-fledged campaign of ethnic cleansing claiming over 1300 lives and injuring 3000 more since 1999.

Lashkar-e-Jhangvi, an extremist Sunni militant group, banned in Pakistan since 2001, is behind the latest attacks in January and February that targeted busy markets and schools where children were about to leave for home. Over two hundred mainly women and children died in the blasts.
Protests in Quetta by the Shia community erupted and they refused to bury their victims until the Pakistani army would take control of the security in the city. Prime Minister Ashraf removed the Chief Minister and his cabinet from their posts, but refused Military rule. 170 suspects, including one of the masterminds behind the attacks, were finally arrested and the victims are now being mourned at their graves by their relatives.



Lahore is about to celebrate the inauguration of the country's first Metrobus service, that is expected to carry 30 000 people daily to work, and the Chief Minister of the province of Punjab, Shahbaz Sharif, invites the Diplomatic Corps to join the "jour de fête" - it is campaign season and extensive photo coverage in the media is to be expected.
Ambassadors and High Commissioners of twenty four countries meet and their flags are adorning the majestic hall of the Hotel Pearl Continental, including the one of Swaziland. Sadly missing Switzerland's white cross on red ground, we soon realize, that we have become the representatives of that fine African country instead.

The old town of Lahore is a very tempting place to hang out for diplomats residing in the new city of Islamabad and "Cuckoo's Den" one of the most romantic places - the food is being lifted to the rooftop by a hanging basket - and we melt with the local people and in front of the view down at the Fort, the Mosque and the mystical illuminations of the night lights.

Sunday morning and following the script we take our assigned seats in the marquee on time, waiting for the other guests to arrive, representatives of laborers, lawyers, nurses, senior citizens, etc., the music band to unpack and tune their instruments, the press to dribble in, the water bottles to be distributed, the lights to be adjusted, the cameras to be installed and finally, we witness the arrival of the chief guest, Punjab Chief Minister Shabaz Sharif along with his unlike brother Nawaz Sharif, who is preparing for the next election, aspiring to become the new Prime Minister of Pakistan. An exhausting series of speeches follows, interrupted by frequent trumpet bursts and marches and we listen with interest to the Urdu and Punjabi speaking dignitaries' extensive talks, left to admire the sound of the language in the face of failing translation devices.

We experience how efficient the security coverage of high politicians work, cover our arms and heads and follow to the buses waiting for us for their first ride.

Shiny red buses, adorned with gladioli taped on all sides, swallow the whole delegation and we embark on a journey that will cover the entire 27km stretch of the bus line from Gajjumata to Shahdara town, passing slowly all 26 stops, waving and smiling to the enthusiastic crowd that awaits us on every station. And then, we turn around and enjoy the ride once more, now able to fully enjoy the opposite side of the busline. Collegues are being seen on their mobile phones, frantically canceling first their scheduled late business lunches, then their meetings, wondering if there even will be a moment left to refresh at the hotel before the evening program.

Lunch and a leisurely afternoon was planned at the famous Polo Lounge in Lahore and arriving under the golden light of the setting sun the motorcade of all our armored vehicles dashes on the Polo ground, and we just make it to witness the end of the games and for the Dean to hand over the cup to the winning team.

Everyone swiftly heads for a seat in the garden terrace and the tasty lunch finds immediately grateful recipients,  the hot chocolate cakes are equally fast off the plates and we hurry back to the hotel to get refreshed and dressed for the evening banquet.

Out in the garden and in front of the Lahore Fort of Mughal emperor Akbar from the 16th century, musicians from different parts of Punjab entertain, dinner follows and we hold on to our warm shawls, as evening dew starts cooling the air on this poetical spring evening.