On the Road in Sindh

The seven missing prisoners from Rawalpindi's Adiala Jail have finally been presented at the Supreme Court upon the order of Chief Justice Chaudhry, barely able to walk or talk. The people present in Court were reportedly horrified by their appearance. An investigation has been opened and the involved agencies were ordered to produce the full records from the day they were detained, including the four prisoners who died in custody. "Humanity means something", Chief Justice Chaudhry proclaimed at the hearing.

The Pakistani Supreme Court adjourns the next hearing in the contempt case against PM Gilani until February 28th and Memogate continues to simmer with Mansoor Ijaz, the Pakistani-US businessman at the center of the story being questioned in London these days.

Inviting Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy in Karachi for a luncheon, a year after she presented her documentary "Pakistan's Taliban Generation" in New York at OTR is a tremendous pleasure, sharing her joy about the recent Academy's Oscar Nomination for her last documentary "Saving Face" about acid crimes in Pakistan. These crimes are the most hideous attacks on women, robbing them of their visual identity, leaving them with immeasurable pain and endless surgeries, if there are means available at all. The attackers are rarely identified, even less prosecuted.
Curious, courageous, very talented and determined to stay in Pakistan and help to improve the conditions in her country, outspoken, fun loving and beautiful, she is a young urban woman that contrasts sharply with the picture of Pakistani women usually depicted by the media abroad.

Heading for the Oscar Ceremony - important decisions have to be taken! After our lunch she is leaving for a fitting with the young and upcoming designer Sania Maskatiya - her style wonderfully comfortable to wear yet very glamorous, her embroideries of stunning beauty, a craftsmanship still very much alive in Pakistan. Another discovery here, very talented fashion designers combining the sensuality of the east with the elegance of the west.

Our next stops in Karachi give me the opportunity to wear alternately nylon cap, mouth guard, plastic head cap, respiratory protection, shoe covers, earplugs, nose guard, only the hands free for shaking them tirelessly with friendly and patient hosts, who eagerly explain what they are doing:

Denim Jeans production from the refinement of the fibre all the way to the elaborate process of perfect maltreatment of the product in the end - who wants a freshly looking pair of pants these days! This plant produces 40 000 Jeans per day for various brands in Europe and the United States.

Printing money to pay for them - a Swiss company is leading in the production of money paint. Who would doubt their professionalism in that field!

The sophistication of Gate Gourmet Karachi - in case you ever wondered where those neatly packed small bowls, plates and boxes during flights might come from.

The journey continues North through the countryside of Interior Sindh near the border to Beluchistan, adventurous ride to Ranikot, allegedly the largest Fort in the world with a perimeter of 50km, its history still largely unknown and no actual archaeological research being done - the last study dates from 1965.
The unique atmosphere makes up for the lack of knowledge  - solitude and serenity, driving through a stunning landscape, a kind of road barely visible, rivers without bridges to cross.

A night at the estate of a Landlord in a world so different from what we know. The owner, a young politician from Karachi, comes here regularly to look after what he calls  "his village". His many employees live in utter poverty, but his life is surprisingly modest and no signs of luxury; the land has to support many and last years flooding affected the fields and irrigation system badly.
A late night hunt promises excitement, despite very cold temperature, but no animal looses its life, deers are protected and the boars faster than our Jeep. The Kalashnikow that I am given is of no use in this case anyway - I spare you that picture.

The journey back to Karachi, endless hours that melt into one another, giving a feeling of transcendence, driving through villages and virtually one step afar from street life, in slow motion, all behind bulletproof glass that swallows every sound and taste. A surreal passage through a distant world that could not be closer and music from the ipod that matches surprisingly well the scenery - changing from Schubert to Blues. Different senses combine and create unexpected harmony and a journey that goes far beyond the miles actually driven in the car.

Protection is generously provided and gives a wonderful feeling of security whenever the safety of the car has to be abandoned. An Ambassador is walking a few steps and is obviously enjoying full attention of caring escorts - all the while his "trailing spouse" is meandering behind completely unnoticed.
Priorities!!

Stumbling Blocks

Having returned to Pakistan a few days ago, it seemed at first that the crises of the past weeks regarding Memogate and the tragic border incident have calmed down and gave room to a more prudent attitude of all involved in order to save Democracy.


The key witness in the "Memogate" affair, who refused to come to Pakistan allegedly fearing for his life, is ordered to appear at Pakistan's High Commission in London in order to testify via video conference. There is hope that this might clarify important questions regarding the infamous memo possibly involving the government and the military alike.


Another matter  is about to turn into a major constitutional crisis involving Prime Minister Gilani, who refuses to request the Swiss authorities to reopen a case involving alleged funds of President Zardari on the ground of Presidential immunity. The Supreme Court of Pakistan is about to condemn the Prime Minister for contempt of court, which might lead to his indictment.


The Supreme Court and his energetic Chief Justice Chaudhry is moving forward on another important matter, ordering the two powerful intelligence agencies ISI (Inter Service Intelligence) and MI ((Military Intelligence) to present immediately seven prisoners who went missing in their custody. The objection, that their medical condition would not allow the transport of the prisoners, was dismissed by the judge - "bring them in helicopters, if they cannot be brought in cars". An investigation has been opened about the circumstances under which four other prisoners died in custody, shortly after being acquitted of terrorist activities.




Another and more visible stumbling block has developed into a daily challenge, namely to reach the desired destination. Protest rallies are staged with unpredictability and the text messages by the security usually take me by surprise, leaving me guess if there is a way around the blocked roads, if the wait-and-see policy is more promising or simply giving up and return home is the best solution. So far the not-giving-up strategy worked best this week - including avoiding yesterday's rally of transporters' organizations against the raising price of diesel and petrol and another several hours lasting demonstration of activists for Hazara province in the center of Islamabad.

After having brought my old and heavy Rolleiflex camera in my hand luggage through all security checks to Shanghai - there is nothing more beautiful than capturing life in black and white and on traditional film rolls, I thought - the carefully cooled rolls get cooked and all silver vaporized from the celluloid in the hands of the local professional photographer. He tried to develop them with his own mixture of chemicals, the standard chemicals not being available here on the market and he seems as distraught as me from the result... I am back to digital photos now.

The first warming sun rays of spring and the air is filled with heavy sweet smell of tiny hyacinths,  mothers with their children wind them to small bundles at street corners. What an enthusiastically welcomed change to the usual gladiolas, that fill the vendor stalls all year long with the only choice of color - white, red or dyed in blue ink. According to an old Indian proverb "the source of happiness lies in contentment", the ways of arranging these long lean sticks with a sharp tip let me no choice but create some truly inventive arrangements!

The British colonial past left numerous traces in the daily life in this part of the world, one of them being afternoon tea at 4pm, even at the construction site of the neighboring Moroccan residence. Spring is welcomed also here, the small housing tents leaving the workers to endure many cold nights during the winter season.

What better way to beat the Enclave blues than with birthday parties - numerous birthdays of the Wild Gang in a real accumulation are celebrated with great enthusiasm and repeatedly, under such themes as "Aquarius Birthdays" (Aquarius being widely interpreted...), "Indian Breakfast", "Ugly Girls Birthday Lunch", ... and that can all be done within one week and within very close neighborhood, we all live "down the road"!

A fresh slice of a new birthday cake today led to the amused question, if this had become a new habit of ours - daily Birthday celebrations. Definitely an idea to consider!