Women of Different Walks of Life

I come across a woman, silent, no voice, no face visible, no body contour; the Burqa hiding nearly all personal expression. Only two dark eyes that immediately shy away as I look at her, leaving me to guess about her personality by the way she is walking and the shoes she is wearing. But shoes can reveal astonishing things! Flashes of most sophisticated high heels in bright green snake skin show below a black Burqa at Islamabad's airport, the hands of the totally veiled woman painted elaborately with henna and the young man who accompanies her in Jeans and Versace shirt - obviously a newly wedded couple. I wonder where they might be heading for their honeymoon.

Women with such an outfit can be seen on the market, of course always accompanied. Then there are those who live in Purdah, totally concealed from being seen by men, leaving their home only to be married and moved to the parents-in-laws house. One could only meet them at their home, and only being a woman as well.

The death of Nusrat Bhutto last week, wife of late president Zulfikar Ali Bhutto and mother of Benazir Bhutto has brought back to public attention the life of a remarkable and strong woman, closely linked to the history of Pakistan.

The extraordinary range of qualities attributed to her seem at first a far stretch for a single woman. But following her life story not only through news articles, but testimonies by her friends, reveal an outstanding personality and exceptional life. Born to a Kurdish Iranian immigrant family, she completed senior Cambridge exams in Bombay, but refused to go to college, because her grandfather insisted she would have to wear a Burqa. "Women here in Pakistan are treated like pieces of furniture", she said in an interview in 1975, "we are human beings and should be heard."

She married Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, was instrumental in founding the now ruling Pakistan People's Party (PPP), held at some point a cabinet position, fought for her husband's release after his imprisonment by General Ziaul Haq and stayed in Pakistan after his execution. The regime even denied her attending his funeral.  She formed the Movement for the Restoration of Democracy within the PPP and stood up against the military ruler Ziaul Haq, enduring imprisonment herself. She tragically lost two sons and daughter Benazir and saw her family split in two in the struggles and fights for political power. 

Recent reports of a planned kidnapping of her grandson Bilawal Bhutto Zardari by TTP (Tehreek-e-Taliban) and al Qaeda, could not reach her anymore.

But she also gained reputation as a fashion icon and symbol of style and grace - not only during her time as First Lady of Pakistan - intriguingly fusing western chic with eastern traditional attire and I see every one's eyes light up when I ask about her.

More news about women - I am a woman after all! - following the closely watched visit of US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton here in Islamabad. 

At the press conference at the end of the talks, a young journalist who identified herself as Shamama, addressed Hillary Clinton: "We all know that the whole of Pakistan is facing the brunt of whatever is happening and trying to cooperate with the US, and somehow the US is like a mother-in-law which is just not satisfied with us. We are trying to please you, and every time you come and visit us you have a new idea and tell us, 'You are not doing enough and need to work harder'" - she got a big round of applause and laughter, from the audience as well as from the Secretary of State.

Next day's headline in the Express Tribune: 'MOTHER-IN-LAW' IN TOWN - with a great photo of the two ladies with the concurring age difference! This episode including the reaction by Hillary Clinton contributed to a more upbeat outcome of that visit giving it a personal and human touch.

On the way to Sri Lanka for a few days of vacation and on board of an airplane of PIA (Pakistan International Airways) to Karachi we hear none of the usual music tunes intended to calm the potentially nervous passengers before a flight. Instead, just before take off, a sonorous voice calmly recites prayers. No presentation of all the usual life saving gadgets such as life vest or oxygen mask. The prayers will do the trick, I hope.

Shortly before landing, still surprisingly calmly strapped to my seat, I listen to the pilot's voice, announcing our landing - "… in ten minutes, Inshallah!" - now really rising my concerns about a safe landing. Steep dive and I am again on safe ground, hurray!

Karachi airport offers an odd look at hundred's of men in all shapes and sizes wrapped in nothing but a single large white bath towel - they are on their way to Mecca, I hear. Hardly any luggage visible and since it would be hard to hide anything under these circumstances, I assume that this is their whole set of clothes for the trip. Interesting perspective - I will certainly follow up on that. Maybe some good tips for my own packing?