Women of Different Walks of Life

I come across a woman, silent, no voice, no face visible, no body contour; the Burqa hiding nearly all personal expression. Only two dark eyes that immediately shy away as I look at her, leaving me to guess about her personality by the way she is walking and the shoes she is wearing. But shoes can reveal astonishing things! Flashes of most sophisticated high heels in bright green snake skin show below a black Burqa at Islamabad's airport, the hands of the totally veiled woman painted elaborately with henna and the young man who accompanies her in Jeans and Versace shirt - obviously a newly wedded couple. I wonder where they might be heading for their honeymoon.

Women with such an outfit can be seen on the market, of course always accompanied. Then there are those who live in Purdah, totally concealed from being seen by men, leaving their home only to be married and moved to the parents-in-laws house. One could only meet them at their home, and only being a woman as well.

The death of Nusrat Bhutto last week, wife of late president Zulfikar Ali Bhutto and mother of Benazir Bhutto has brought back to public attention the life of a remarkable and strong woman, closely linked to the history of Pakistan.

The extraordinary range of qualities attributed to her seem at first a far stretch for a single woman. But following her life story not only through news articles, but testimonies by her friends, reveal an outstanding personality and exceptional life. Born to a Kurdish Iranian immigrant family, she completed senior Cambridge exams in Bombay, but refused to go to college, because her grandfather insisted she would have to wear a Burqa. "Women here in Pakistan are treated like pieces of furniture", she said in an interview in 1975, "we are human beings and should be heard."

She married Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, was instrumental in founding the now ruling Pakistan People's Party (PPP), held at some point a cabinet position, fought for her husband's release after his imprisonment by General Ziaul Haq and stayed in Pakistan after his execution. The regime even denied her attending his funeral.  She formed the Movement for the Restoration of Democracy within the PPP and stood up against the military ruler Ziaul Haq, enduring imprisonment herself. She tragically lost two sons and daughter Benazir and saw her family split in two in the struggles and fights for political power. 

Recent reports of a planned kidnapping of her grandson Bilawal Bhutto Zardari by TTP (Tehreek-e-Taliban) and al Qaeda, could not reach her anymore.

But she also gained reputation as a fashion icon and symbol of style and grace - not only during her time as First Lady of Pakistan - intriguingly fusing western chic with eastern traditional attire and I see every one's eyes light up when I ask about her.

More news about women - I am a woman after all! - following the closely watched visit of US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton here in Islamabad. 

At the press conference at the end of the talks, a young journalist who identified herself as Shamama, addressed Hillary Clinton: "We all know that the whole of Pakistan is facing the brunt of whatever is happening and trying to cooperate with the US, and somehow the US is like a mother-in-law which is just not satisfied with us. We are trying to please you, and every time you come and visit us you have a new idea and tell us, 'You are not doing enough and need to work harder'" - she got a big round of applause and laughter, from the audience as well as from the Secretary of State.

Next day's headline in the Express Tribune: 'MOTHER-IN-LAW' IN TOWN - with a great photo of the two ladies with the concurring age difference! This episode including the reaction by Hillary Clinton contributed to a more upbeat outcome of that visit giving it a personal and human touch.

On the way to Sri Lanka for a few days of vacation and on board of an airplane of PIA (Pakistan International Airways) to Karachi we hear none of the usual music tunes intended to calm the potentially nervous passengers before a flight. Instead, just before take off, a sonorous voice calmly recites prayers. No presentation of all the usual life saving gadgets such as life vest or oxygen mask. The prayers will do the trick, I hope.

Shortly before landing, still surprisingly calmly strapped to my seat, I listen to the pilot's voice, announcing our landing - "… in ten minutes, Inshallah!" - now really rising my concerns about a safe landing. Steep dive and I am again on safe ground, hurray!

Karachi airport offers an odd look at hundred's of men in all shapes and sizes wrapped in nothing but a single large white bath towel - they are on their way to Mecca, I hear. Hardly any luggage visible and since it would be hard to hide anything under these circumstances, I assume that this is their whole set of clothes for the trip. Interesting perspective - I will certainly follow up on that. Maybe some good tips for my own packing?

Schoolday for Girls

An invitation to inaugurate a girls college in the vicinity of Islamabad brings us with a drive of a few miles into the rural area and a different world. We are faced with great generosity and commitment on the one side and ever growing difficulties in the education system of Pakistan on the other side.

On the way to the school through the suburbs of Islamabad we see hardly any women on the streets and markets and the few we spot are tightly veiled. I put on my sunglasses, to avoid the stares of men even through the tinted windows of the car.

We arrive at the school which started as an elementary school for girls seven years ago. A shelter for women was added two years later and now college education was about to being offered, all funded by a Swiss of Pakistani origin with the help of several supporters from Switzerland and Pakistan.

The two main gates are inaccessible since four days,  blocked by neighbours (who sold the properties to the school) asking now for more money after all seemed to be paid for and settled. The legal outcome is uncertain, we are told, and this not because of an unclear legal situation. One of many obstacles the school faces.

The school collects no fees and provides also food and lodging, shelter and security for many of them. An incredible diversity of family background and education is visible in the faces - and in the way the girls are dressed. Luckily, expressions of curiosity and joy are in the majority!

Pakistan has an estimated population growth of 2.1%, far higher than all countries in the region, four million children every year and the public school system is under growing stress, not only because of lack of money.

Last week a "moral brigade" of seminary students - sixty masked men carrying iron rods - attacked a girls school in the nearby city of Rawalpindi and thrashed and terrorised students and teachers, warning them to dress modestly and wear hijabs. The police refused to file a case against the identified  students, having been instructed by the "higher ups" to do so, according to news reports. An increasing climate of fear takes its toll on the liberal elite in the society.

A morning with no Internet access and a broken mobile phone (bought two months ago), million things that ask for my attention in and around the house, nothing getting done according to plan and just the gorgeous weather to be counted on as a delight. Fortunately an escape in the form of a lunch with my "Wild Gang" - we are testing restaurants for an Islamabad restaurant guide, which does not exist so far. After I initiated this project, we were joined by a friend and journalist who was the star in a TV cooking show and she brought her friends - a growing "staff" of young Pakistani journalists, lawyers who like to eat and write,... a very interesting mix of  Pakistani Yuppies!

So we head to our third round of testing to an Asian restaurant, being very limited in our choices by the security people who like to limit our movements with relentless reliability. We meet at the restaurant, the four of us sit at the table and the first alarm message arrives through sms - bomb blast at police station in F/10, followed by concerned phone calls by our husbands. No, we are safe and at the Marriott. We lean back, it's far enough not to be worried and start ordering half of the dishes offered on the menu - after all, we are here to test!

You might figure out the name of the restaurant!! (It starts with a "B"...) We are hesitant to order dessert, because we do not feel an urge for more food after the numerous main dishes we tested. We decide to order one dessert, shared on four plates, but are being served four generous portions of Nougat Praline, the speciality of the house, after the General Manager paid a short visit to welcome us as the only four guests for today's lunch at the restaurant - it's Friday. Thanks to one of our "Gang"  - carrying here an elegant version of a wine crate, we enjoyed our own upgraded version of a lunch.

Waiting for our drivers to be brought back to safety, one of my "Wild Gang" friends makes a courageous remark that we will keep secret from her husband and her security team: "Mark my words! One day I will walk home from Hotel Serena to my residence! What can happen between me, the Serena and the residence! It's a two minute walk! Come on! Girls!!"