Babylon in Hindu Kush

Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif announces that his government will put on trial former military ruler General Musharraf under Art.6 of the Constitution (high treason) for imposing emergency rule in November 2007. There is a certain worry on how the armed forces will react to this upcoming trial. Some say that "Mush"- a nickname that originates from the time of his presidency that mostly coincided with that of another president in another continent with a similarly short name - may get a symbolic sentence, followed by a forced departure from Pakistan.

The new government is determined to give a serious push to improve relations with India through economic ties, initiating buying power from its neighbor with numerous delegations already having visited on both sides. Trade and commerce should be separated from political issues and dealt with first. Linkages between the Punjabs in India and Pakistan should be improved through personal ties - the Sharif family originates from India, as the Indian Prime Minister was born on Pakistani soil!
Members of religious minorities within Sharif's party have found representation in the National and Punjab assemblies, which is noteworthy since Sharif is regarded a conservative religious; this gives hope to more tolerance.




Doha is the place of choice for the opening of a new office: the Afghan Taliban hoist their flag of the "Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan", only to lower it after fierce protest from the current President of Afghanistan and intervention by Qatar. The roller coaster "Searching for Peace in Afghanistan" takes new turns with new passengers on board and nobody knows whether it will finally arrive safely or derail in midair.

The dream to travel to AJK (Azad Jammu and Kashmir) is destined to remain a dream, at least for now, as on the morning of the planned trip still no NOC (non objection certificate) has arrived. Plans are adjusted, heading for the Kaghan Valley in the Hindu Kush next to Kashmir instead.

Lunch break on the way in Shogran and the kind owner of the mountain summer resort offers to serve the food outside on a small bench, seeing my sadly disappointed face in the perspective of eating in the dark restaurant, which can easily be named "room with no view", if the wild Chinese decoration is not counted as "view". The menu has twenty three different dishes, twenty one of them with chicken and the decision on chicken shashlick is met with reservation; chicken Mandjurian would be the best, he insists. No, no sauce, no Chinese, just grilled chicken, and no rice either, please! And here it is, the barbecued chicken with no rice and no sauce, as we are assured that's what it is.

Hindu Kush - the drive up the Kaghan valley and then on top of the mountains a breathtaking adventure in many ways. Streams that cross the stony road, rocks from recent landslides that cover half of it and big holes where chunks just plummeted down the canyon.

Slowed down to walking speed, the crossing cars pass in slow motion and offer unique glances into the intimacy of strangers, that act completely unobserved in the privacy of their cars; children squeezed into the back seat together, screaming and fighting, young men styled for the disco singing to the music, ... a whole kaleidoscope, a miniature world, on the road.

Arriving at dusk in Naran, a special service is offered in midst of the tents, that we usually do not associate with simple camping life: a man with an iron heated by gas waits for potential customers, giving a whole new meaning to the term "Iron Man", that in his case does not demand tremendous athletic qualities.

To make sure to be on time for the adventurous ride for the top of the mountain, as a big crowd is expected to turn up, the caring waiter in the hotel insist on taking the order for an early breakfast the night before, even knocking at our door late at night to inquire about our preference of bread (toast or nan) having forgotten to ask in the restaurant. In the morning at the breakfast table I ask for cold milk for the corn flakes, he grasps the jug with hot milk and appears again after a considerable time with the same little pot and very helpfully starts pouring the piping hot content over the crispy flakes, that collapse immediately to a flat mush... "Good cold now?"

There are over 300 languages and dialects in Pakistan and each is distinctly different from the other. Some of them are Punjabi, Sindhi, Pashtu, Balochi, Urdu (this the national language, a mixture of Persian, Arabic and various local languages, similar to Hindi and to make things even more challenging for a Western foreigner written in Arabic script) - I quit Urdu lessons, in sheer desperation over the incapability of memorizing any word of it.

As the mountain drivers are on strike this morning, it takes three attempts and a fair amount of luck in form of a soft heart of the strike leader to actually get us on the way! It will be the only car to make it and so the pristine scenery is all ours.

Another sweet heart, this one to sit on awaits and its softness turns out to be desperately needed - holding onto, or better hanging in the leashes fixed on the rollbar of the jeep - the passenger gets constantly catapulted in the air and only the rooftop, which luckily is of canvas material stops the free flight.

Best to avoid looking to the right side into the deep canyon or to the left side to the overhanging rock rubble and just contemplating about the beauty of the distant mountain peaks! An hour long drive that feels more like a many hours long hike - meeting a young crowd from Karachi that spent the night there, a rest, a tea on the top.

On the long drive back home and determined to give Abbottabad a chance to leave another, more upbeat impression than the notorious one about the former unwanted guest, I follow the path of a journalist who discovered that coffee mania was about to develop in this city.

"Coffity" at New Jadoon Plaza - the entrance to the mall would be easy to identify, we are told, as a statue of a black horse adorns the plaza in front of it. Indeed, it invites to a "Thrill Ride" - expectations are raising!
Looking as casually as possible, trying to hide the growing excitement, I order a cappuccino - a word not very often heard in a country of tea drinkers. "Sure!" the one word answer. Getting even bolder now: Iced cappuccino? Espresso?? "Sure!" HEAVEN! I can bring New Yorkers here (as long as they are willing to skip the 1%, 2%, skimmed or whole milk part...)!!

The owner of "Coffity" is delighted that visitors find the way to his place in Abbottabad from as far away as Islamabad and tells that last week he had an American guest from the military, bringing his family for coffee here. His family??? Things must have changed considerably since last year...

Arriving back in Isloo late at night and the air is hot and heavy, the pool water at 35 ° C - and I could swim through ice water for hours...

No Time To Breathe

Nawaz Sharif takes office as Prime Minister - it is his third attempt to govern the country and he appears a matured politician, having been twice dismissed from office before and having spent many years in exile. As the solemn swearing in ceremony takes place, General Musharaff, who had ousted, imprisoned and exiled him in a military coup ten years ago, sits only a few miles away in his villa confined to house-imprisonment. His destiny remains uncertain and his house well guarded - we circle in a wide range to reach friends living in his neighborhood.

President Asif Zardari addresses the joint session of National Assembly and Senate, emphasizing the smooth transition of power and the fact, that during the five year term of  his party's rule there has not been a single political prisoner, as Nawaz Shariff and he himself had to endure that experience earlier in life. He calls for an end to the politics of revenge and victimization in Pakistan.

The government starts with great sincerity that can be read on their faces, a budget to clear the circular debt that strangles the power sector, a small and professional committee to bring the ailing Pakistan International Airways back on track, a substantial injection in Pakistan Railways to revive the much needed transport capacity, a sentiment of cautious hope emerges.

Cautious hope, that has been shattered again so badly last night, as sectarian terrorists went on a bloody rampage in the capital of Belochistan, killing at least 28 people. Lashkar-e-Jhangvi claimed again credit for this attack, killing 14 female students by bombing the bus that was to bring them home from the one and only women's university in Quetta and then seizing parts of the hospital treating survivors of the attack. The fierce battle to gain control inside the hospital took the security forces six hours with many more casualties among their ranks, politicians and family members. Four suicide bombers blew themselves up in the hospital.

The new Chief Minister of this province bordering Afghanistan and Iran, Dr. Abdul Malik Baloch, is the first to emerge from the educated middle class and not from the traditional ranks of tribal lords. His appointment was praised with high respect and expectations. He finds himself after the first week of taking office in the middle of the bloody separatist movement. Belochistan has rich and largely unexploited reserves of copper, gold, natural gas and its own deep water port Gwadar. Its history is marked by chronic instability since being incorporated into Pakistan in 1948.

The government in Islamabad and Belochistan are facing their first big challenge in dealing with ruthless terrorists.

Visiting the Supreme Court lets, of course, a sleeping lawyer's heart beat faster. The many rooms bursting with lawyers, all dressed in black suits and ties and with white shirts, a dense atmosphere of excitement. All cases can be brought to the SC, up to the judges to decide which ones they will accept to proceed. The portraits on the wall show former judges wearing impressive white wigs - no longer in use, as this tradition would seriously challenge the endurance of the wise men at the bench, load shedding also here taking place. The elegant white ponytail of one of the judges more of a fashionable statement, I assume. The elevator has a fan fixed inside, hanging from the ceiling and producing a light air disturbance in the otherwise rather sticky cabin.
Chief Justice Chaudry presides over a case in Courtroom One, the legendary judge, who stretches his power in the eyes of many to - and beyond - the limits. His term comes to an end in October. A politician and dear friend from Sindh is challenging the election outcome in his province in the next courtroom and another one is filling up with journalists. We find out that the "case Musharraf" is next on the agenda.



As my struggle to connect to Apple's iCloud floating in cyber space continues, I pack the various devices in order to be virtually connected in the car and head to a residential area, where - I was told - a villa houses some young computer wizards. And indeed, behind a discrete gate and a few marble steps down, "Pak Mac""invites for support to any possible computer problem! The friendly guys, all in the same impeccably ironed striped shirts and jeans offer immediate help, download and upload, a process that would take several hours... No despair, what to do with that unexpected time in an unknown location as I am quickly invited to tea and biscuits and interesting discussions with these self taught specialists. They just want to have a peaceful country, where they can live a prosperous life and don't have to worry about politics.

The "Agas" are fighting the heat with ever new and inventive ideas and we eagerly share every single one of them! The latest treasures from the local fashion markets in thin white lawn fabric, made to measurements, wander repeatedly back to the tailor, the airflow through the clothes seems a bit too generous even for the temperatures we face here. Small pink boxes find their place in our handbags, as dear friend "Agalex" introduces us to the "face saving" tiny pieces of magic paper we are eagerly "blotting" our faces with. Keeping a pair of sandals stuffed with moistened paper in the freezer makes for another wonderful refreshment to look forward to, when stepping into them (I barely remember the heating pads for the ski boots, that I used to treasure in other times...)!!

Agas lunch at Saidpur village - the restaurant Andaaz offers a table packed with the full variety of asian dishes, the many different and tasty spices heat additionally from the inside and we ask for all the shades to be lowered around us. Hence, there remains one spot in bright sunlight and before being baked and cooked and able to be served on an additional plate, I ask for relief to that impending danger. Of course there is: a young waiter stretches a blanket behind my back. After a while I enquire wether the young gentleman is waiting for clips to fix the volatile structure. He politely answers that he will be standing here, serving as a living umbrella. My friends suggest to enjoy this once in a lifetime service, which, I admit is tempting - well, I take a hard decision, I change the seat.

Summer always means change, as the Diplomatic carousel is again turning, entering the second farewell round for us and we say goodbye to our colleagues at a small lunch reception, organized by the Dean of the Diplomatic Corps - remembering with some nostalgia dear friends, last year's nomads that left the country for new endeavors. Again, the Dean reaches new levels of style and the parting are offered beautifully crafted chests (one hopes, packaging the household is still in process, in order to send them on their way to the next posting by shipping container and not as hand luggage on the plane...) and the ladies contemplate about the many jewelries that surely are meant to be safely stored in those lovely compartments. The men opt for cigars.
Each of the Ambassadors holds a short - or not so short - speech, standing behind the chests and dear Dutch colleague and friend Gaius quotes Antoine de St.Exupery - "partir, c'est toujours mourir un peu"- hoping that this is not meant literally given the similarity of the wooden and carved boxes with elegant coffins. The white gladioli on top right on place....

  

Where To Begin?

The first civilian transition of power took place yesterday morning, as 301 newly elected members of the National Assembly took oath - two thirds of them entering the house for the first time, building a completely rejuvenated parliament.

Incoming Prime Minister Navaz Sharif, who is expected to be sworn in next week, is determined to hit the ground running. Meetings with all major stakeholders from the energy sector in order to add a substantial amount of electricity into the national grid within the next nine months, announcing drastic cuts in the number of high ranking civil servants and a serious attempt to fight corruption speak of a hectic schedule. A long agenda - where to begin...?
Former President Musharraf will pose an early challenge to the new government, as he is determined to face the court cases against him and announced to stay put in the country, come what may.
Chief of Army Staff General Kajani visits Nawaz Sharif in a plain shalwar kameez to discuss their future cooperation and possible differences in tackling key issues, national security and how to deal with the Taliban presumably on top of the list.

The recent killing of a key Pakistani Taliban commander Wali-Ur Rehman Mehsud in a US drone strike will show in the next weeks its impact on that terror organization. He was behind some of last years' worst attacks and raised funds for their operations through a gang robbing banks and kidnapping for ransom; the abduction of the Swiss couple in Beluchistan was part of their activities.
Many wonder, how a supposed dialogue, suggested by the new government, could bring a peaceful solution and an end to the many attacks on the lives of civilians and army alike.


The ICRC (International Committee of the Red Cross) announces to halt all staff movement across Afghanistan after its office in Jalalabad was hit by a deadly suicide attack. 1'800 staff members suspend their many valuable activities, stop handing out medicine and food. So far, none of the militant groups has claimed responsibility for the attack and the Taliban denied any involvement.
In Pakistan, the ICRC's activities remain greatly reduced since last year's murder of one of their delegates in Quetta.

The persistent heatwave in this part of the world - which probably balances the equally persistent cold wave in Europe - brings not only the joy of ever lighter and brighter summer clothes (at least for the ladies...), but short kept walks under the relentless sun in order to reach as fast as possible the next air conditioned "island". But the ever increasing hours of power outages, reaching now up to twenty hours in rural areas, add one more challenge to many families: Water pipes are deprived of their useful purpose of carrying water to the houses, as four hours of electricity are insufficient for the water pumps to fulfill their job. Only the lucky ones have their own wells and generators to pump groundwater into their sinks and bathtubs. 

But the residence continues to be in full swing and dinner tables have to be decorated somehow. The garden is in its season change from spring to summer and is of no help in this regard, not a single blooming flower to be spotted and I dare a hopeful expedition to the open flower stalls.

Gladioli!! Now available in two colors - in elegant white and in fashionable salmon. Trying not to over indulge in fanciness, I limit the choice to the white ones and ask the shopkeeper of stall number 5, if by any chance he has some greenery available to add to the simple beauty of this flowers. He has not, but invites me to the back of the stall to offer me the secret supply of lilies he keeps stacked in plastic bags in a freezer, that I assume is housing them for quite a while by now. I stick to my gladioli.

With light feet on the hot and sandy ground, I head with my friends to our tiny shop for handmade and beautifully embroidered Pakistani Khussas from Punjab, a pleasure for the naked foot, to step into this featherweight piece of foot wear with a sole of soft camel leather. Going back to the period of princes and moguls and stitched with gold and silver threats, pearls and stones at the time. A bit more modest the decorations these days, but just as comfortable to wear and the son of the shop owner looks for the matching pairs!

In New York, Imran Qureshi is painting the floor of Metropolitan Museum's fabulous rooftop, beautifully shaping the red paint splashes into flower petals, as he has done on the white Bait Al-Serkal courtyard in the United Arab Emirates.
But here he has to compete with the breathtaking view on Central Park, which opens as a wild green jungle now beneath the terrace, and the skyline of Manhattan in the glistening evening sun after a soft spring rain. The art lovers and visitors climb the last stairs up to the roof and wonder, where the installation is to be seen, before they realize that they are walking on the artwork. The glamorous opening party takes place on the ground floor among the white marble statues of ancient Rome and it remains to be seen, if this now famous Pakistani artist can bridge Islamic art and the West here in New York and reach the hearts and minds of the many visitors.