A new player shot overnight into the political arena of Pakistan and is challenging the government with a "revolution" of his own. Tahir-ul Qadri, a moderate Islamic cleric, who returned after six years in Canada to Pakistan, stages his first rally that nearly paralyzes the government - and seals off, once again, the Diplomatic Enclave from the rest of Islamabad. He is calling for the dissolution of the country's parliament as well as the provincial governments and finds great support among the disillusioned and increasingly angry middle class, often called "Mehran men", named after the small and popular car in Pakistan, who suffer continuous hardships in their daily life. Queues in front of gas stations reach agonizing lengths, the waiting time for the desperately needed fuel is reaching a new record of five to six hours. Limited choice in the upcoming elections add to the frustration and new hope to fight corruption is eagerly welcomed.
His first protest march with several thousand followers ends after talks with the government, which agrees to dissolve parliament before March 16th so that elections, due in May, can take place within 90 days and electoral reforms would be discussed. Impending delay of the elections are a widespread concern.
Yesterday he announced the second phase of his revolution to come with more protests, starting mid February in Gujranwala, Faisalabad, Multan and Peshawar. It remains to be seen, whether there is more to come besides an impressive ability to organize a peaceful and logistically well managed protest rally.
The new Dean of the Diplomatic Corps is expanding our possibilities to discover Pakistan to new limits - challenging the ever present concerns of security and the difficulties to obtain the necessary NOC's (non objection certificates) to our travels. Including the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in fact having it inviting us for a trip, turns out to be a very successful way and so we, a group of twenty Ambassadors and a few wives, head for a three days tour to Sindh. The Prime Minister's plane is waiting for us and we reach a new comfort level as we fly to Karachi, which is usually of limited luxury on the regular PIA flights (last time I considered bringing inflatable cushions). The chief of protocol invites us ladies to the Prime Minister's lounge in the plane - and there we are, separated from the men in a cozy round, as the male members of the delegation light their cigars and cigarettes - indeed an unusual sight on a flight these days, just a glass of whiskey is missing.
A first early lunch is being served and most of us resist, coming right from breakfast. Little do we know that this would turn out to become a foodie trip, as slowly our resistance crumbles in sight of the always generous Pakistani hospitality, where delicacies are waiting for us whenever there is a chair to sit down. We end up being offered at least seven meals per day. One of our colleagues coming from a hospitable country in the Middle East himself, looks wearily, saying that sometimes you don't want to visit any one anymore, because you just cannot eat any more food. His suit agrees.
Landing in Karachi, pleasant summer weather welcomes us and we proceed to the mausoleum of Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan, to honor his memory with a wreath - and a prayer.
The ride behind curtains on two buses goes smoothly and we cross the city in record speed, thanks to efficient police escorts, who brush away every vehicle in our way and providently close all crossings ahead of us for the traffic. I might ask them to join me on my next visit to New York and Zurich, as their efficiency in clearing the streets for fast arrivals seems hard to beat.
We learn, that Ali Jinnah not only had a soft spot for elegant cars, but for an elaborate and very stylish wardrobe as well - the shoe selection makes any lady envious, not to mention the exquisite case to travel the world with a dozen pairs of shoes neatly stacked in individual compartments.
Another custom made extravaganza is his "shooting cane" - its usefulness probably limited for walking.
A transport aircraft by the Army brings us to Mohenjo Daro, the archeological site of the Metropolitan city of the Indus civilization, equal in importance to the Mesopotamian and Egyptian Civilizations and flourishing between 2500 and 1800 B.C.
Buildings made of sun dried bricks and exposed to the weather once excavated are now limited in their life span, but leave an impressive idea of a vast city once alive in this valley. Little is known about the circumstances of their rise and fall, their language still undeciphered, our visit well protected.
Flight back and trays with lovely sandwiches and sweets on our knees, a break from all conversation due to the noise of the propellers and everyone retrieves in their own thoughts and dreams, heading towards the sunset.
The visit turns more official, the teas and meals follow in a steady flow, the buffets with a tempting variety of meat and lentil plates and we discover with relief that we are actually just the first round of guests at the tables. Next in line are a growing number of "accompanying persons", followed by the security personnel, then the guards, followed by the drivers, the helpers, the families of the helpers, the last one the cat to turn its round around the now empty plates.
Coffee is being offered, auspiciously announced as Espresso in proud competition with Nespresso and only the small glass in front of the machine, by the same company, raises suspicion about the standard of the black drink that is served in neatly stacked white plastic cups.
A last dinner at the estate of one of the most flamboyant and generous hosts in Karachi, who is back from New York and the exhilarating atmosphere of the UN. In full swing having twenty Ambassadors at his table, an amount even rare to host in his residence there, he expresses feelings of some nostalgia about past times. Now he is in white Shalwar Kameez, still with his signature cane, at his home that is actually an exquisite art gallery, a museum, a sharp contrast to any of the publicly accessible museums and leaving us all wondering about the next role of Ambassador Abdullah Hussein Haroon in Pakistan.
