In The Wild South

The mourning month of Muharram will come to an end this Sunday and will hopefully bring back the relative freedom of movement - and an end to the deeply somber tunes at all radio stations.  Ashura is the event commemorating the killing of Hussain, the grandson of the prophet Muhammad, by Caliph Yazid, who wanted to ensure the succession for his own son, dividing consequently the Sunnis from the Shiites.
Shia processions have repeatedly and bloodily been attacked leaving yesterday more than twenty dead in the nearby city of Rawalpindi alone.

Pakistan started to release a considerable number of imprisoned Afghan Taliban leaders hoping to contribute to a negotiated arrangement between the Afghan government and opposition groups in view of the transition and withdrawal of foreign troops by 2014. Awareness grows that the future of the country lies in the hands of the regional players rather than foreign powers.


Having first missed in Karachi the Literature Festival in February of this year by a few hours, then the Karachi Fashion Show by a few days, I finally make it in time to attend IDEAS (International Defense Exhibition and Seminar), that is in plain English an Arms Fair. Trailing spouse - and adapting to a wider range of interests...
In fact, the topic raises many interesting questions and after one of the presentations the accompanying "leading" male spouse I am trailing behind remarks, that the expert from the army must have taken me as the Ambassador, since he almost exclusively spoke to me.

But I am not the only female visitor at the fair and all kinds of weapons are being examined, tested, posed and photographed with for interesting portraits.

Detailed questions are being asked and met with patient explanations all day long - my focus changes to the female participation of this "Arms for Peace" Seminar, as it is called by the organizers, being a defense and export promotion event.

And surprisingly, here I find my fashion show, an unexpected addition to the otherwise more martial range of exhibits. Saris in a soft beige, a color so popular in the West among women, beautifully draped and topped by coquettish berets, charming, must be more of a gala uniform than a battle suit, I assume.

The navy is not lacking behind with its sense of elegance and offers their squad an equally attractive lily-white sari, worn with pride by the young officers - again probably less in use on a submarine or battleship.

The Chinese exhibitors occupy a whole hall and demonstrate pictorially either their determination to protect their merchandise - or possibly their striking power. Business seems to be slow on this hot November afternoon, one of the dealers taking a nap behind the impressive selection of antitank grenades.

At the newly opened and fashionable Dolman City Mall in Karachi Swiss watch distributors run an impressive variety of shops and, at their wrists, an equally interesting selection of Swiss watches! Colleagues and competitors at the same time, they scrutinize each others choices, pose willingly with their fists and ask for a copy of the photo to be mailed to everyone.

The citizens of Karachi adapt their daily routine to the challenging security situation and I am told that due to an increasing number of robberies at gunpoint in traffic jams, women now carry a "fake" second handbag with them on their lap with expired mobile phone and credit cards, little money, while hiding their "real" one in the trunk. The same do men with their mobiles and watches, carrying a second set with them, ready to be robbed with hopefully little damage to life and limb.


Back in Islamabad after a few weeks, the first morning run in the enclave and two guards in front of the Italian (!) Embassy get up, wave and shout - "we missed you!" - I am back home!

Eid ul Azha - The Meat Eid!

While Malala is recovering from her shot wounds in Birmingham, Kainat Riaz, one of the two other girls injured in the attack is back to school, determined to get her education, as the other girls of the school do.

The Supreme Court orders "immediate operation" in Karachi to tackle the rising crime rate, in particular target killings and extortion being the most serious felonies. The Court orders that all suspects, including Taliban, that had been released on parole while waiting for trial had to be rearrested immediately. The government of Sindh has been ordered to take immediate action against all armed groups in Karachi, including Taliban fighters hiding in this southern megapolis and take seriously notice of their presence.  Reports suggest that possibly six to seven thousand Taliban had entered the city. The president is following the Supreme Court's order on the "Karachi law and order case" advising the provincial law ministers to work on legislation for witness protection, including their families. One of the major obstacles in prosecuting criminals is the fear of revenge against the witnesses and their families.

Eid - commonly called the meat Eid - approaches. "If you like animals, stay at home!" is the well meaning advice by many locals and foreigners - I like animals, I staid at home. But after two years of staying behind doors during Eid preparations and celebrations I decide to tempt fate and go to the markets of sheep, goats and oxen that are herded to Islamabad from the country side. Each family is buying one of them for slaughter on Saturday, dividing it into three parts, one for family and friends, one for the poor and the last one for themselves. The special dishes served throughout the festivities are, of course, made of meat.

Wandering through the densely crowded but unagitated market, where proud farmers present their colorfully adorned beasts, my guard grabs me suddenly on my sleeve: "Don't go any further, you might get killed!" Jumping back and looking for cover, I wonder about the danger and am told that a cow might kill me - well, luckily, that's a danger I, as a simple Swiss girl, am perfectly capable to confront. My poor caring guard though continues trying to protect me from all sides at the same time. I am confident that he would do the same in case of even greater danger.

The beasts are praised and marketed under a new qualification system that shows immediately and clearly their value to everyone: There are Jaguar oxen, BMW cows and Honda sheep.
The animals to be sacrificed are loaded and transported home on pickups, on the back seat of passenger cars, on the lap of motorcyclists,...  happy smiles on the faces of the lucky buyers!

The "food court" in the market offers a variety of delicious meals and snacks to the all-male public, that sits on benches, cushions or on the ground, sipping tea and full of joyful anticipation of the approaching festivities.

The next day starts with an early prayer in the mosque for the men and then within the next couple of hours the slaughter takes place, butchers are being booked or they simply walk up and down the streets to offer their service.

A lamb is awaiting its turn at the home of a dear friend, who is amazed at my interest to attend and not so eager to witness herself. The butcher, a kind man and well trained proceeds with his work, I lower my camera and close firmly my eyes, to the amusement of the male family members. On my insistent inquiry they confess, that every one closed their eyes, having still to listen to the sound of the dying animal was enough to endure. There lies the lamb's head, its eyes covered with one of its long ears. My hostess to this ritual offers me a rack of the fresh lamb to go and smiles as I politely decline - the offer was obviously not a very serious one...

A variety of dishes to go with the meat are being offered to the many visitors, friends and family members. The day celebrates the sacrifice of Abraham and thus his test of faith - the altar in Christian churches but a reminder of the sacrifices that took place on them in ancient times.