June 23, 2011

Karachi Boiling Hot

Karachi at 44°C and with supposedly 20 million inhabitants is a boiling city in more than one sense.  Upon arrival, we are welcomed by very caring men in uniform, who keep us constant company throughout our stay and give an immediate sense of the surprises that could be waiting here.
Passing the Mehran Air Base - the showplace of a bold attack only a month ago -  on the way to the city leaves no doubt as to how far and how close to the city the militants have come by now.




We visit a village where two Swiss private companies are donating several very simple houses and running drinking water supply to families, who survived last summer's heavy flooding with nothing more than their bare lives. The keys and properties are handed over to the women and mothers, after having made the experience, that men had sold their properties and the families had lost their home again. Women apparently hold on to their houses better.
In Pakistan 28% of all pregnancies are unwanted and 900 000 abortions are registered every year - contraceptives are not forbidden by the Koran but by many husbands and in-laws. There is incredible poverty and sadness, no sight of a school, medical care and hardly any food. Surviving is the only purpose of life at the time.
A miracle, that there are still children with a smile on their faces.






Koohi Goth Hospital - my next visit offers more hope for improvement! Our "Wild Gang" had organized a "High Tea" at the British High Commissioner's residence in early spring  and with the help of generous donors we were able to support the surgeries done at the Hospital for Fistula repair by providing medications and bandages. The surgeries are being done for free and a team of doctors performs them on Sundays.
What a joy to see some of these women, whose life and dignity has been given back to them! Proudly they are sitting in their tribal costumes or shalwar kameezes on their Hospital beds. The doctors speak of incredible strength and resilience they encounter in most of these women. Going back home and to their hard work immediately after the operations is all they want. The patients come from all provinces of Pakistan, speaking many different languages and dialects, some of them unknown to the doctors and nurses. Such a richness of culture, wherever I arrive in this country!
The biggest achievement of Dr. Shersha Syeed and his team is the school for midwives at the hospital, even going on to teach midwives to become teachers back home in their villages - starting at the root of the problem and trying to avoid fistulas altogether.



The Swiss Consul General set up a competition among local schools in Karachi to create a poster for the 720th anniversary of Switzerland, which will be commemorated on the 1st of August this year. Surprising results from students of a country so different and distant to ours!
One with the Swiss flag - a big white cross on red ground with the words written "order = power" on it - would probably not win the first price in Switzerland, but it does say a lot about daily life in this country.
Another student quotes from the late Swiss Psychiatrist Elisabeth Kübler-Ross - also on the Swiss flag:

"Learn to get in touch with the silence within yourself and know that everything in life has a purpose. There are no mistakes, no coincidences, all events are blessings given to us to learn from."


At the old British "Sindh Club"  (male members only!) we eat an incredibly delicious Pakistani dinner - fruity and hot spices and...  the mango season starts in Karachi!




June 9, 2011

Pakistan and Horses

Having been living for half a year in Islamabad, I am still wondering every day about the discoveries, perspectives and miracles of this kaleidoscope Pakistan. Its ever changing views and surprises are getting even  more difficult to understand the longer I am here! The country described in the newspapers is so very different from the way that I experience it every day.  How to bring together the noble and gentle Pakistanis with the deadly activities of so various terrorist groups? No overview possible on such a field for a newcomer like me.

The many shocking news these last weeks have amounted to a sense of despair among the Pakistanis. The only hope that remains after every single event is that this might finally be the wake-up call every one has been waiting for to make things move in another, more promising direction! The whole society is changing towards a more conservative and religious one with great consequences in every domain - be it schools, families, military or the social position of women.
The freedom of press in Pakistan allows a multitude of opinions being freely expressed - whatever the motivation or agenda behind it is! However, to guarantee the freedom of press the journalists are also in need of security. The recent killing of Syed Saleem Shahzad 10 days ago sadly proves that this is not the case yet.  To make things even worse, none of the police stations in the area where the murder occurred feels in charge of filing the murder report.
His widow with three young children is trying to survive on promises and no means to live on!




Still, there is enough fun to enjoy life here!
"Tent Pegging" Competition last Sunday in Islamabad - fierce riders on wonderfully saddled horses racing and trying to pierce a tiny tablet on the field with long spears. The team which succeeds in collecting most of the tiny tablets wins! Much fun to watch and to photograph - in fact they were so delighted about me taking pictures and I so lost in doing so, that I just missed being overrun by another team in full gallop.  And then they wanted me to mount several horses, the riders hoping this might bring some luck to their team... instead of tea "Energy Drinks" Pakistani style were served and I was about ready to compete as well after the second drink. Luckily the ballet slippers on my feet made me rethink and hold back!!

My "Wild Gang" (our Diplomatic group of trailing spouses!) is collecting the most amazing and interesting experiences in Asian SPA's - on my next blog...  but then again, next week I will be in Karachi!